The “Juicy One”/Das Saftige (Germany)

Rye %: 100%
Stages: Sour sponge, Final dough
Leaven: Rye sour culture, Instant yeast
Start to Finish: 13-15 hours
Hands-on Time: 20-30 minutes
Yield: One 3-lb/1.35 kb loaf

Odd name for a bread, The “Juicy One,” especially since this close-crumbed, rustic north German bread is anything but “saftig,” German, for “juicy. But if you consider its broader meaning (which survives in the Yiddish word zoftig) of “ripe,” “luscious” and “mouth watering,” then the description is spot-on, for this bread has a rich, mouth-filling texture and subdued sweet spiciness that showcases rye in all its glory.

Aside from an overnight sourdough sponge, the bread comes together quickly and easily. The dough mixes for 10-12 minutes, ferments for an hour and then undergoes a second mixing during which sunflower seeds are added. Proofing is short – 15 or 20 minutes – and the dense dough requires a bake of 1½ hours. Mix this dough in the morning and you can have finished loaves by noon.

Here’s the “mouth-watering” part: Together with the seeds, the rye meal – a whopping 91.5% of total flour content – produce a coarse-grained, intensely rustic chew. The flavor profile is mild and complex – more like a mellow Danish rye than a sour and robust north German bread. The relatively small amount of sour sponge contributes a hint of acidity to the finish, while the subtle astringency of caraway and citrus notes of coriander play against the natural sweetness of rye and syrup. This is an engaging bread with a distinctive personality, equally at home with a strong veined cheese like Stilton or Gorgonzola, smoked meat and fish, or a fermented sausage like sopressata.

Sponge (Day 1, Evening):

Ingredient Grams Ounces Baker’s
Percentage
Medium rye flour 70 2.45 100%
Warm (105°F/41°C) water 70 2.45 100%
Rye sour culture 10 0.35 14%

Mix the sponge ingredients by hand, cover and ferment at room temp (70°F/21°C) until doubled in volume, 8-10 hours or overnight.


Final Dough
(Day 2, Morning):

Ingredient Grams Ounces
Sponge 150 5.25
Coarse rye meal 750 26.45
Warm (105°F/41°C) water 530 18.70
Salt 20 0.70
Instant yeast 8 0.30
Beet syrup, light molasses or dark corn syrup 85 3.00
Caraway seed 3 0.10
Coriander seed, ground 3 0.10
Sunflower seed 50 1.75

In the mixer bowl, combine the final dough ingredients except for the sunflower seeds. Use the flat paddle at low (KA2) speed to mix until the dough is fully integrated and the coarse rye meal starts to break down, 10-12 minutes. Cover and ferment at room temperature for about 1 hour: the dough will have barely expanded.


Add the sunflower seeds and use the flat paddle at low (KA2) speed to mix the dough until the seeds are fully incorporated.

Use a plastic scraper and wet hands to transfer the dough into a well-greased 9″x4″x4″/23x10x10 cm. Pullman loaf pans or9″x5″x3″/23x13x8 cm standard loaf pan. Use wet hands and scraper to pack and shape the dough so that it forms a slight dome. Cover the pan and proof at room temperature until the dough has expanded to within 1 inch/3 cm of the rim of the pan, 15-20 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 480°F/250°C with the baking surface in the middle. Dock the loaf to a depth of 1 to 1½ inches/3-4 cm and bake for 15 minutes. Reduce the temperature to 355°F/180°C and continue baking for another 60 minutes, then turn off the oven and bake the loaf in the residual heat for another 15 minutes. Transfer to a rack and let stand at least 24 hours before slicing.


Baker’s Percentages:

Ingredient g %
TOTAL FLOUR 820 100.00%
   Coarse rye meal 750 91.46%
   Medium rye flour 70 8.54%
Water 600 73.17%
Salt 20 2.44%
Instant yeast 8 0.98%
Rye sour culture 10 1.22%
Syrup 85 10.37%
Sunflower seeds 50 6.10%
Caraway seed 3 0.37%
Coriander seed 3 0.37%
TOTAL FORMULA 1,599 195.00%
Prefermented 70 8.54%

 


6 Comments

  • Paul, baker dude

    January 19, 2017

    Hi Stanley, about the Crushed Rye Meal used here:

    Is this strictly rye kernels that have been crushed to smaller pieces or is this rye wholegrain flour with bits, as in a VERY coarse rye flour? The description on the NYB page doesn’t really specify. What it does indicate is that this should be soaked ahead of time or scalded but ratios are not given. And soaking would suggest it is just cracked grain (although soaking and scalding flour is obviously not unheard of).

    So this recipe doesn’t suggest soaking or scalding; is the grain to simply absorb moisture while mixing/proofing?

    How close is this to what one might consider “rye chops”? Could I use whole rye kernels, soak/boil to tender and then pulse in a food processor?

    Thanks for clarifying.

    Reply
    • Stanley Ginsberg

      January 20, 2017

      hi Paul, the coarse rye meal is, in fact, whole rye that’s been crushed just enough to break the kernels. Although most of the breads I’ve baked that use coarse rye meal call for pre-softening of some kind, whether soaking or scalding, this one doesn’t. Instead, the 10-12 minute mix and the second 5-minute mix after bulk fermenting break the kernels even further and allow them to hydrate. That hydration and absorption continue through the 90-minute bake and 24-48 hour rest following baking, resulting in the bread’s coarse, rustic, and firm yet tender crumb.

      I don’t know that poaching whole rye kernels and then blending them to break them up is all that good an idea: the whole basis of rye bread is the viscous gel that forms when water meets the grain’s complex starches; pre-cooking the starches essentially short-circuits the process, depriving the bread of the matrix that holds it together. If all you have is whole kernels, I’d pulse them before cooking, rather than after.

      To your point re: rye chops, chops are cut, which IMO, doesn’t liberate as much of the starchy endosperm as crushing and also doesn’t allow the grain to break down as well during mixing. While chops are good as textural additives, I’m hesitant to build an entire loaf around them without scalding or soaking.

      Reply
  • Sabine Friedrich-Walter

    January 20, 2017

    The last coarse Rye I got from NY was very coarse, closed to barely crashed , so added fine Rye to the mix. 70% very coarse and 30% fine . Lets see the result later. Since I bake similar bread weekly, I am familiar with wet dough’s.North German and Nordic Breads.
    Your Rye book is my new baking “bible” great recipes good substitute for most of my German Books and Recipes, because missing the perfect flour and not have it on hand here is the trick. Need always lots of adjustment for good and close results.
    Thank you.
    Sabine

    Reply
  • BB

    January 26, 2017

    In Swedish, “saftig”, when applied to bread, would simply mean moist.
    Thank you for your fine blog.

    Reply
  • Valentina M

    February 13, 2017

    Thank you so much for another excellent recipe. I’ve made a couple of loaves from your new book and each one of them turned out just great. We love rye breads in my family and it’s a treat to have a full book to play with!

    Reply

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