“Closing Time” Dark Caraway Rye/Dunkles Feierabendbrot mit Kümmel (Austria)

Ever since I acquired my copy of Der Duft von Frischem Brot (The Aroma of Fresh-baked Bread), I’ve been hooked on Austrian ryes, which, like so many Alpine ryes I’ve encountered, have wonderfully complex and interesting flavor profiles. This caraway rye is no exception. It’s a creation of third-generation baker Johannes Breuss, of Oberdorf, a town  nestled in the  high Alps of Vorarlberg, Austria’s westernmost region,  where it’s bordered by Bavaria, Switzerland and Liechtenstein.

With the exception of the mild nuttiness of the light rye flour and the moist tenderness of its open crumb, there’s nothing subtle about this bread: the caraway seeds, both ground and whole, provide a solid blast of pungent astringency, followed by an intense, well-balanced sour – the result of a 10-12 hour sponge and 3-hour bulk ferment. Proofing seam-side down and then flipping it seam-side up to bake produces an appealing rustic look and the 45-50 minute bake time results in the thick, chewy crust that European rye lovers favor.

I like intense flavors, and this “Closing Time” Dark Caraway Rye will stand up to anything, including robust soups and stews, intensely flavored washed-rind and veined cheeses, and heavily cured and smoked meat and fish.

Sponge (Day 1, Evening):

Combine the sponge ingredients, cover and ferment at room temperature (70°F/21°C) overnight, 10-12 hours. The sponge will have tripled in volume and begun to fall back on itself and the surface will show broken bubbles.

Final Dough (Day 2, Morning):

Combine the flours in the mixer bowl and dissolve the sponge and yeast in the water.

Use the dough hook to mix at low (KA2) speed for 3-4 minutes and add the caraway seed and salt.

Continue mixing until the dough is well blended and starts traveling up the dough hook, 5-6 minutes.

Use wet hands to pat the dough down.

Cover and bulk ferment at room temperature until the dough has tripled in volume, about 3 hours.

Turn the dough onto a well-floured work surface, knead it back to its original volume and divide into two pieces, each weighing about 1¼ lb./575 g.

Form each piece into a boule.

Flour well, cover, and proof at room temperature, seam side down, until the floured surface shows cracks, about 45 minutes.

Flip the loaves onto a parchment-lined sheet pan so that they’re seam side up.

Preheat the oven to 450°F/230°C with the baking surface in the upper third. Bake until the loaves thump when tapped with a finger and the internal temperature is at least 198°F/92°C, 45-50 minutes. Transfer to a rack and cool thoroughly before slicing.

Baker’s Percentages: