Auvergne Rye/Pain Seigle d’Auvergne

It recently occurred to me that most of the breads I’ve posted have been German and Eastern European, with an Alpine and Swedish bread thrown in for variety. But, in fact, those breads don’t begin to scratch the surface of rye’s diversity, so in the interest of broadening the map, I chose a French rye for my latest bake.

“A French rye?” you say. “Rye from the land of baguettes  and batârds; épis, fougasses and boules?” To which I reply, “Indeed; for the French were eating rye long before wheat, and the rye traditions are still strong along the sandy coastal plains of Normandy and Brittany, the Basse-Alpes region of Provence, and in the Auvergne, which centers on the Massif Centrale – the vast volcanic highland that dominates south central France and accounts for about 15% of its total area.

This bread is especially interesting for a couple of reasons: First, like most French breads, it contains only flour water, salt and, in this case, wild yeast. Second, and more intriguing, is that it’s built on a long-fermented 2-stage sponge that, at 167%, is so highly hydrated that it seemed to me like the rye equivalent of a poolish. Because of its long fermentation, the sponges account for less than 23% of total flour, which is well below the standard threshold of 30% for sponge-only leavening.

Given the nature of the sponge, I was expecting an intensely sour flavor profile; instead, I was rewarded with a moist, close-crumbed, beautifully balanced bread that featured the sweetness of the rye that gradually transformed into a nuanced sour finish.

Like the wheat breads of the French lowlands, this Auvergne rye is a splendid accompaniment to just about anything edible, from strong-flavored cheeses and charcuterie to savory stews and hearty soups. I also like it with a thin coating of butter, accompanied by bites of lightly  salted radish.

Stage 1 Sponge:

Combine the Stage 1 sponge ingredients by hand until they take on the consistency of a loose batter, cover and ferment at room temperature (70°F/21°C) until bubbly and collapsed back to near its original volume 18-24 hours.

Stage 2 Sponge:

Combine the Stage 2 sponge ingredients by hand. Cover and ferment at room temperature 12-18 hours. The sponge will be very vigorous at first, but fermentation will slow and the sponge will be very bubbly, have a moderately sour smell and will have reached about double its original volume.

Final Dough:

Combine the flours, water and Stage 2 sponge in the mixer bowl and use the dough hook at low (KA2) speed to mix until the dough comes together into a firm mass and cleans the sides of the bowl, 4-5 minutes. Cover and ferment at room temperature 30 minutes.

Add the salt and mix as before until the salt is fully incorporated, 5-6 minutes. Cover and ferment at room temperature until doubled in volume, about 2½ hours.

Turn the dough onto a lightly floured work surface, knead it back to its original volume and divide it into two pieces, each weighing approximately 31 oz./880 g. Form each into a boule and place seam-side up into a well-floured banneton or cloth-lined proofing basket. Cover and proof at room temperature until the surface of the dough shows cracks, 60-75 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 535°F/280°C with the baking surface in the middle and a steam pan on a lower shelf. Turn the proofed loaves onto a well-floured peel, if using a baking stone, or a parchment-lined sheet pan and slash each loaf to a depth of at least ¼”/0.6 cm.

Bake with steam 15 minutes, then remove the steam pan, lower the temperature to 480°F/250°C and bake for an additional 15 minutes. Reduce the temperature again, to 425°F/220°C and bake until the loaves thump when tapped with a finger and the internal temperature is at least 198°F/92°C, 30-35 minutes. Transfer to a rack and cool at least 12 hours before slicing.

 *Rounded to nearest 0.05 oz.

Baker’s Percentages: